Getting to Know the Crowntail Betta Fish

The Crowntail betta belongs to the Belontiidae family and is native to Cambodia, Laos and Thailand. It is a carnivore that grows to a length of three inches. It does well in freshwater aquariums and should be housed in minimum tank size of one gallon. Optimal conditions for this type of fish include a temperature range of 75 to 85 degrees, pH level of 6.0 to 8.0 and dH level of no more than 25. It needs low light and it is considered an easy pet to manage. A tank for the Crowntail betta should ideally have plenty of water plants as this will give it plenty of hiding places amid the foliage.

 

 

Getting to Know the Crowntail Betta Fish

The most striking feature of the Crowntail betta is its remarkable tail and that sets it apart from other fish in the betta group. The Crowntail is sometimes described as having a teardrop shape. If you have questions about betta fish for sale and where to buy premium crowntail betta, just search on google , yahoo or bing. The tail has, what appear to be, the points of a crown and that is the reason for the name of the fish also.

These fish, which are spoken of as belonging to a group of Siamese fighting fish, have been actively bred to enhance the colors of the males and the features of the fins. An interesting note about the Crowntail betta is that it is thought to me one of the oldest species of fish that have been kept in domestic aquariums. The male of the species tend to have more colors and definitely have longer fins than the females of the species. These fish were also traditionally bred to increase their combative abilities – hence the fighting fish description – and so it is a good idea to house only one male in a tank. Territorial battles are likely to break out if more than one male is in a small tank. The females, which are distinguished by their smaller and shorter fins, are sometimes housed two to a tank. Although, this should also be done only with caution and there should be careful monitoring of the tank-mates.

As Crowntail betta is a carnivore fish, these fish do well with a diet consisting of specially made fish food, quality flakes, brine shrimp and freeze-dried or frozen bloodworms. If using frozen food, make it a point to thaw the food to room temperature prior to placing it in the tank. This will help the fish process it quickly and is less likely to impact the temperature or cleanliness of the tank. Unconsumed frozen food can end up leading to an unclean tank environment.

This species of fish tends to float or swim near the top of the tank. Another fun fact about the Crowntail betta is that it is a labyrinth fish. Labyrinth fish are those that are capable of breathing oxygen directly from the air and this is a useful characteristic because these fish rise to the surface and breathe oxygen if the water is polluted or if it does not have enough oxygen for some other reason.

The Crowntail betta reproduces by laying eggs. Those interested in breeding can house a male and female together for short periods. After the female lays the eggs, the male tends the eggs by placing them in what is called a bubblenest. You can expect to see the fry emerge in a day or two and they should initially be fed small amounts of food. Ideally it should be easily processed food such as powdered or crushed flakes or you can try newly-hatched brine shrimp. Thoroughly chopped hard-boiled egg yolk is also a recommended item in fry diet.

If you have a large home aquarium and want to house more than one kind of fish it is useful to know that Tetras, Rasboras, Catfish, Danios, Plecos, Angelfish, Guppies, Platies, and Mollies are among the fish that are considered safe to be combined with the Crowntail betta.

Tips for Identifying and Treating Betta Diseases

Betta fish can be fantastic pets for both adults and children alike, however it can be quite upsetting to see your betta succumb to one of many betta diseases. Betta fish are naturally friendly and they love interaction. Their beautiful fins spread out with fan-like grace and make for very attractive pets. In order to ensure that your betta has a nice long life, you should know the warning signs of some of the most common betta diseases and how to treat them.

 

 

We are going to discuss some of the most popular diseases that betta fish are susceptible to, as well as the symptoms of each to help you identify when your betta is in need. The first disease we are going to talk about is called Fin Rot. Fin rot is a very common disease that usually results from injuries done by a bullying tank mate—something you should definitely look out for. If it seems one fish is biting or bumping into others, that fish should be removed to a solitary tank, as he is likely not sociable enough to be housed with other fish. Fin rot is technically a bacterial infection that can result from injuries to the scales, but it isn’t always linked to abuse from bullying fish. When the scales and fins are affected by this bacteria, they turn brown and can even result in bits of fin and scale breaking away altogether. You may notice these bits floating in the water, but you will most likely first notice the spots on your betta’s body and fins. Treatment may include a salt bath or your veterinarian may prescribe the Melafix medication.

One of the nastiest of betta diseases is called Dropsy. Dropsy can be caused by several things, such as internal parasites and tumors, however the most likely cause is a bacterial infection. The bacteria becomes lodged within the betta’s tissues which often results in kidney strain. The fish’s body starts to retain water and swells up. The most obvious symptom of dropsy is that the fish’s body swells up so much that the fins start sticking out. Many often compare the sight to a pine cone. The bacteria could be a result of poor water filtration, but this is not always the case. It’s always a good idea to keep the tank nice and clean, as well as change out the water filter often, if you have one. Treatment for dropsy must be initiated as soon as possible as this can be a fatal illness. Your veterinarian or fish specialist may recommend Tetracycline, Maracyn, or Kanacyn, as well as give you some anti-fungal treatment for the fish tank and water. Your fish will likely require a bi-daily bath in electrolyte-balancing salt water to help the fish release the excess fluid and balance his vital nutrients. The sooner this disease is treated, the more likely your chances are of saving your fish.

Nitrite poisoning is common in all sorts of fish, including bettas. Nitrite can build up in the water if the proper precautions and maintenance are not taken with your fish tank. Overfeeding or failure to remove uneaten food, failure to change the water as often as necessary, as well as improper aeration are all common causes behind nitrite poisoning. Your betta may be dealing with this illness if you notice that he spends a lot of time “gasping” for air at the top of the tank or if he spends a lot of time around the tank aerator (or other source of oxygen). His gills may move rapidly and take on a brown-ish color, and he may become less active. If this happens, you want to start changing the water out more frequently and using a water conditioning tablet to balance the pH levels. Your fish’s water may also not be getting enough oxygen. Do you have an aerator or other item that constantly pumps bubbles into the water? If not, you definitely need to consider getting one of these. Also, try feeding your fish smaller meals more frequently throughout the day. Feeding your fish a large amount of food once or twice a day will usually result in a waste of food as well as pollution of the water as the food breaks down. Try just giving a few sprinkles three or four times a day instead.

If you notice any odd behavior in your fish that simply isn’t rectified no matter what you do, then a trip to a fish specialist may be in order.

Male and Female Betta Fish Behavior

Adult male Betta fish are easily distinguished by their long fins, nearly two times to four times longer than their female counterparts.

Striking differences between the male betta will have, long colorful fins and beautiful and attractive. They will be more aggressive toward other betta fish and sometimes even with other species and this is why it is sometimes difficult to put it into a community tank, but it might just go online to look for possible community partners.

 

male betta fish

 

female betta fish

 

They tend to be brighter colors and deeper range as well. Men have their gill membranes under the covers, sometimes called the beard, which is displayed when open, but still visible when closed.

Male Betta fish bubble nest egg blow to home before breeding while women do not. Their beards, men of talent to intimidate each other, although women were sometimes aggressive displays similar behavior. Male territorial and will not tolerate the presence of other fish. They have been known to flare their beards in their own reflection.

Females have very short fins and he, usually, will be far more peaceful than the male bettas and some can even be a happy community fish.

Adult female Betta fish are easily distinguished by their shorter fins. All women have a place of eggs, small white spots, which lie on their stomach between ventrals and anal fins. Sometimes, a teenage boy has this place also, but will carry into adulthood. Women have a similar membrane beard man ‘, but not visible when closed gill membranes. Today, female Betta fish are bred for longer fins and more color variations, making it more difficult sexing.

Bettas are best raised early in life, between one year and a half years. Women should be small enough to allow a man to wrap himself around her body. After a lay eggs, the male Betta take full responsibility for them, collecting the baby in their mouths and deposit them in a bubble nest. After the bubble nest egg, the female should be removed from the tank, as males can be recognized as a predator of eggs and attacked him.